With growing suspicions regarding the termination of Brioni's womenswear, the Italian labels's CEO
Francesco Pesci decided to make it official via a press release and confirmed that Brioni is discontinuing its women's line. Some people had seen the closure of its factory in Congiunti, Italy, which was exclusively dedicated to the production of the brand's women's collections, as sign that this might happen.
Brioni Fall/Winter 2011/12 collection
by Alessandro Dell'Acqua
The CEO explained the decision with the need "to refocus the company's resources on its menswear business". The Italian fashion house has indeed built a good reputation of its luxury ready-to-wear mens's line. However, the decision may come as a bit of a surprise given the fact that it had just hired Alessandro Dell'Acqua in 2010 as the new creative director of womenswear, in order to bring a new dynamic to the collections.
The discontinuation of the line thus also comes with the termination of Dell'Acquas collaboration with the brand. In addition thie, Francesco Pesci announced the cancelation of Brioni's next catwalk show scheduled for the 25th of September in Milan.
However, the CEO denied any links between the new strategic direction and
PPR's apparent interest in the fashion house. It is nevertheless tempting to attribute the sudden change of mind to the ongoing discussions between
Brioni and the
French luxury group, although nothing has been confirmed by the parties involved as of yet.
A few years ago,
Alessandro Dell'Acqua disbanded his own label, and also left his post as creative director of
La Perla. More than twelve months ago he reemerged with a new
Label, No. 21 (named for the day he was born).
Dell 'Acqua has tapped into a refinement and finesse that was somewhat missing before, when he seemed to be happier with industrially produced high fashion than pieces with an artisanal, personal charm. For fall, from
No. 21, there are some wonderful flecked ecru and black sweaters and cardigans which are backed with a heavy black lace, or a pale primrose lace dress with corset contouring, oa a copper-gold sparkling metallic sweater ... And at
Brioni, in the collection's best moments, he's downplaying the haute bourgeois associations with injections of hot pink to contrast classic camel, and has come up with some pretty great variations on the winter lace trend that was all over Milan.
Brioni Fall/Winter 2011/12 by Alessandro Dell'Acqua
Source: Fashion Mag by Anais Lerévérend
VOGUE, Photography by Yannis Vlamos/GoRunway
