Some Oldies

I came across some images from old editorials and I just thought I would share. I wish they were in higher quality, but what can you do? I think some of the Greg Kadel shots are outtakes I've never seen before. Anyway, without further ado....

Just look at Freja's great range in these images. Amazing. I think she deserves more credit than she gets when it comes to versatility. Do you know any other model who straddles the line between femininity and masculinity so effortlessly and successfully? I don't.

Image Credits: trunkarchive.com

Bits and Bytes

Things are ratcheting up as we get closer to the SS10 shows. Only 1 month away! Are you excited?

Freja dusted off her runway walk for Copenhagen Fashion Week last Thursday. She opened and closed the Mads Norgaard show.

Hopefully this means we'll see a "Copenhagen Experience #3" very soon. The fashion film series by Mads Norgaard was supposed to be a trilogy. We saw films #1 and #2 a long time ago but #3 has yet to surface. So I'm going to take Freja opening and closing for Mads as a good sign of things to come.

For those who haven't seen them, here is #1:

And #2:

FTV also just released a new "Models" segment for Freja containing footage from the FW0910 shows.

These types of videos are some of my favorite things about fashion weeks. I just love seeing footage of models backstage during prep. I know it's slightly voyeuristic, but it's really the only chance we get to see our favorite girls in motion off the runway.

That's it for now. As the summer winds down I think we'll start seeing Freja more and more. Don't we have a few eds to look forward to?

Image Credits: copenhagenfashionweek.com

Gucci FW0910

I feel like I can finally post about this now that more Gucci campaign images have been released. I wanted to reserve my judgment until I had a chance to see the images and truly absorb them. The opinion I now have about the campaign differs radically from my initial reaction, so there is truth to the old adage of "think before you speak."

The campaign was shot by Inez and Vinoodh and features a who's who of current "it" models and established veterans. The impression the campaign gives off is very much in line with the glam rock/club scene theme of the collection. This is something Inez and Vinoodh do very well. If you look at their past two Gucci campaigns, they've matched their aesthetics to the aesthetics of the clothes.

(For the FW0809 "babushka" collection, the outdoor field location conjured up images of frolicking Russian peasants.)

(The campaign for the SS09 collection of bright colors and tropical prints was set outdoors among a grove of palm trees and other exotic plant species.)

So the look of this season's campaign really came as no surprise. It's the same concept we've seen for the past two seasons. You have a plethora of models haphazardly placed around a set location that has some relevance to the overall theme of the runway collection. From behind the scenes videos, we know that the models are told to dance and move around as they are being photographed. And judging by the poses and body language in these images, the models did the same thing for this campaign. It's actually quite amazing how the same formula can have such drastically different results. But this is an artistic concept that must work well for Gucci. Otherwise you would think that they would have changed direction...especially in this economic climate.

(On a side note, I just have to wonder if I & V took a little bit of inspiration this time around from the Mellow Yellow Gap ad? Does anyone else think so? Maybe it's just the white background and multitude of models that triggers this association for me.)

Anyway, I don't hate this campaign nor do I think that the models look atrocious. If you go by the comments on tFS, this is the worst campaign of the season and completely ridiculous. People are criticizing everything about this, but after much thought I have to say this campaign is successful in what it purports to be. Artistically, I think it's a little lacking (but certainly not hideous). Commercially, I think it totally sells and that's what an ad campaign is supposed to do. We have editorials and magazine covers to satisfy our creative appetites.

The ads may not be visually beautiful or appealing at first glance, but they are very enthralling. There is so much intensity and palpable emotion running throughout the shots. The compositions are engaging, the models poses are unique, the facial expressions are certainly not empty, and your gaze is really drawn in because there is so much to look at. The use of cropping and perspective add visual interest as well. I think we forget that ads don't have to be omg stunning and gorgeous in order to be effective. You want the potential customer to pay more attention to your product. You do not want to give them an easily digestible image that is also easily forgotten in a matter of seconds.

This campaign works because it is selling a lifestyle concept. Just like past Gucci campaigns, this one portrays a complete fantasy life. You have a collection of clothes and beautiful models all interacting with each other and with you, the consumer. A just released study claims that celebrities used in ads aren't as effective as advertisers think they are. So perhaps it is smart of Gucci to rely on models to sell an attitude. It is, after all, what they know how to do and heaven forbid we hire people with the actual skill set to do a job. A lot of the complaints are about the models' poses and awkward expressions, but perhaps there is a method behind all this visual "madness."

Take this bit of anecdotal evidence: In the business of direct mail you send letters to people in order to solicit money. Studies have shown that letters with strategically placed typos have a higher return rate than letters that are grammatically perfect. No one knows why this is the case, but the main theory is that people catch the typos and read the letter more closely. As they read the letter to find other typos, they actually absorb the message of the letter and are more likely to respond and give you money.

In the same vein, Inez and Vinoodh's campaigns for Gucci have perhaps been visually off-putting to us since we all live and breathe fashion and want to see something beautiful all the time. But to the average consumer, I think the campaign draws you into looking, and as you look you find yourself admiring the products. And before you know it, you're purchasing the products and the ad has done it's job.

All of this being said, I think Freja is totally working it, as are the other models. I think she's expanding her modeling catalog because she's giving poses we've never seen from her before. It feels like she was able to let loose on the set and just go for it. I'm happy to see her and her tattoos prominently featured, and she is totally giving off a glam rock vibe. Jaime Bochart fits in surprisingly well and Anja is quickly winning me over once again. I'm also always happy to see Raquel and Abbey Lee. I can't wait for more images and the behind the scenes video! I'd also love to hear your thoughts on this. :)

Image Credits: gucci.com, zinio.com, scans by lizzylily and whatelseinga @ modelhommes, mrsjamesdean and vogue28 @ tFS, snap by helmut.newton @ tFS

In Other Words

I came across a lovely, insightful post about Freja written here on a blog called "July stars." I must say it's absolutely refreshing to read someone else's point of view on Freja and the way she fits into the modeling industry. Perhaps I have a tendency to over elaborate in my posts, but I think we would all benefit if we partook in more thoughtful and analytical discussion/musing. For I think fashion is a subject just as worthy and receptive to intellectualization as any of the other humanities. And maybe if we approached it more often in this manner, it would begin to garner respect rather than disdain so often associated with "frivolous" pursuits.

Sometimes it can get mundane to read the same declarations of praise over and over again, so I'm thoroughly impressed when someone can come up with such eloquent justifications for their thoughts. Some choice quotes:

"She seems very much of her time while also embodying the rebel among more mainstream contemporaries. I love her ability to break old-fashioned fashion judgements with her gentle and almost imperceptible way of interfering with the flow. Her individualism is her most impressive tool, serving as inspiration for the photographer who sometimes will even adapt his or her own agenda to her confident and unique character."

"Her presence is thrilling, intense and she has no trouble capturing the pace and rhythm of a shoot. The photographs are always infused with Freja’s intensely personal energy, all passion and pensive rebellious eyes."

"I tend to believe that the photographer is the one playing the prominent part in the creation of a masterpiece but in the case of stories featuring Freja I’ve come to realize that she’s the fundamental creative thread. Myths exert a powerful influence in the world of fashion, and the myth of the rebel is one of the most powerful."

I definitely could not have said it better myself. And I've never considered the push and pull between a photographer's vision and Freja's strong photographic personality...very interesting take indeed. Anyway, just thought I'd share these wonderful sentiments.

NY Fashion Week

The schedule for the tents is up! NY fashion week will start Thursday, September 10th and end one week later on Thursday, September 17th. Keep in mind that this schedule just lists designers showing in the tents at Bryant Part. Shows will be going on at locations all over the city including Milk Studios. A full schedule should be released soon.

All you New Yorkers out there better get your cameras ready and keep your patience in check. Models will start descending on the city in droves, so if model watching is a hobby, this is prime time for you. And with any luck and some help from this instructional, you could probably become internet-famous yourself, for all the big street style photographers will also be out in force.

Aren't you excited!? I predict a season of quality, not quantity, for Freja. Expect to see her walk an average of one show a day. She'll no doubt make her first appearance at Rag & Bone which is usually held on the first Friday. You can also bet on her walking for Alexander Wang. Beyond that and it's a bit harder to pin down. Her NY schedule is always a bit more unpredictable than her Milan and Paris schedules. There are always a few surprises thrown in, and this is why the month of September is so exciting and nerve-racking.

Are there any shows you're just dying to see Freja walk in? Do any of you plan to stake out spots in Bryant Park? If so, I wish you good model-spotting luck and hope that you report back!

Photographic Paintings

So I was right after all. Freja shot an editorial for Vogue UK just like I thought she would back in this post. Thank you to tFS member OhJane for scanning!

Enter the Dinner Dress
Vogue UK September 2009
Ph: Javier Vallhonrat

It's a gorgeous editorial and I'm beginning to love Vogue UK for showcasing Freja so often and so creatively. She's had two editorials in back-to-back issues and I'm really hoping she gets a cover in the near future. I know she's neither a celebrity nor British, but Vogue UK is not above putting models on their covers unlike Vogue US. Freja's done some stellar work for them as you can see here, so I think she deserves it.

And much of her stellar work was shot by photographer Javier Vallhonrat. They produce some wonderful work together and I hope they continue to do so. I can say without hesitation that Vallhonrat-lensed editorials are my favorites out of Freja's oeuvre, especially Couture Stripped.

Vallhonrat has a very noticeable and unique photographic aesthetic. I characterize his approach as highly refined with a strong, vivid clarity. His images are loud, unrelenting and intense--a visual equivalent to Phil Spector's "wall of sound" effect in music if that makes sense. I really don't know how else to describe it. His images hit your eyes and take over your sight immediately. There is such a photographic quality to his pictures in that they are so defined, polished and highly stylized. Yet, on the other hand, these qualities are tempered by a tendency towards painterly aesthetics and composition.

When I look at his images I am reminded of late 19th Century Orientalist paintings. To me, Vallhonrat has a very painterly approach and formal sensibility toward photography. It's in the way he composes his shots and arranges his backgrounds. His use of a shallow depth of field and flattened background only accentuates this. There is such an arresting dichotomy of both photographic and painterly qualities colliding in his images. I would argue that it's his defining aesthetic as a photographer.

And Freja works so well within this aesthetic because her features are distinct enough so as not to be overwhelmed by the chaos of the setting and vibrancy of the colors. She herself is a dichotomy of sharp androgyny and soft femininity. A perfect compliment and mirror to the artistic approach of Vallhonrat.

It's important to note that Vallhonrat studied painting early on in his life. I wasn't too surprised to find this out after doing some research on him, as you can clearly see the influence in his photography. He was born in Madrid, Spain and studied at the Fine Arts Faculty. He began his fashion photography career around 1984, but I don't know how he made the transition from painting to photography. I couldn't find too much detail on this. Vallhonrat currently teaches photography in Spain while continuing to photograph for fashion magazines and clients.

This is such a beautiful editorial and the more I look it, the more I find to love. My favorite shot has to be this one for it's moody, introspective quality.

I've really been into the moody, introspective Freja lately. I like this side of her much more than her stern, melancholic side. Isn't the above image a great partner to the other one from her Vogue Nippon editorial?

Anyway, I think I've said enough now....probably too much. But I'm so happy new work is coming out because it gets me excited for more and for the upcoming fashion month!

Image Credits: Scanned by tFS member OhJane
www.jeanleongerome.org
www.eugenedelacroix.org
www.orientalistart.net
Scanned by tFS member MAGstyle

Popularity Musings

Thanks to the fabulous work of tFS member candlebougie, we have the "most viewed model" ranks for the month of July and Freja is number one. For the first time since February she beat out Kate Moss for the top spot, and this got me thinking about a few things.

Warning: Essay ahead. I was in a contemplative mood and I just wanted to get these thoughts down so this mega post is more for me than anyone else. I know most people don't want to read a small novel but I thought I'd post it anyway. The following is definitely NOT for the tl;dr crowd.

How and why is Freja so popular on tFS? She's definitely an established model, but by no means is she the most abundant and consistent in her high profile work. Yet month after month Freja's popularity is validated by her ranking on the most viewed list. In fact, I can't remember the last time she wasn't in the top two.

Compare her to Kate Moss and it's an even more incredible achievement. Kate is extremely well-known and in the media spotlight all the time. Her every outfit and every move is scrutinized by the public and captured by the paparazzi. Her boyfriend is Jaime Hince of The Kills, and she's involved in a lot of high profile collaborations with high ranking people. My friends who know jack shit about fashion know who Kate Moss is for she is the last of the supermodels. Freja is practically the exact opposite and I would give you a hundred dollars if you found someone on the streets of Boise, Idaho who knows who Freja is.

So how can we explain her popularity? Is it because she has a strong and recognizable "personality" within the industry? Everyone knows her as the rebel girl, or the cool, laid-back girl that you'd want to kick it with on a lazy saturday afternoon. She's so unassuming and I think this makes her easy to identify with. Most other models have an air of inaccessibility and refined glamor. You admire them, but you wouldn't necessarily want to chill out with them. Can you picture yourself going to a concert with Snejana? Biking with Magdalena? Watching a movie with Vlada? If you come across this way, you're not going to be super popular. Yes, every model has fans, but I think Freja's personality in the industry garners her more fans who remain very loyal.

Another aspect of all this could be attributed to notions of sexuality. (Side note: There has never been any official comment on Freja's sexuality so everything regarding the topic is complete speculation and hearsay.) That being said, let's face it. We've all heard the rumors and whisperings. Even without official confirmation, many of us assume that Freja is gay and I think this plays a role in creating and sustaining her popularity.

Gays and lesbians have traditionally been marginalized in society and generally lack positive representation in the media. This has of course changed dramatically in the last decade but there is still a very long way to go. For lesbians it is particularly difficult to find other successful, visible, lesbians to identify with. There are shows like the L Word, but that is clearly glamorized fiction. As I write this the only real-life lesbian with recent media coverage I can think of is Chastity Bono. And no offense to her, but she doesn't exactly solicit a positive response from people. I don't see tons of women (lesbian, bi, straight) clamoring to be like her or forming fan groups for her.

Freja, on the other hand, is beautiful and extremely successful in her profession. There is no drama surrounding her and she is not involved in crazy public antics. By all accounts she is intelligent, polite and just a normal woman (not to say that Chastity Bono isn't, I was just using her as an example). I would argue that she is a rare role model for other lesbians to look up to. If this is indeed the case, these feelings of admiration and respect would breed extreme loyalty, which in turn could account for her popularity. As it stands there are so few lesbians to identify with that when there is one people will cling to her for dear life.

Another important factor in this is that Freja has kept mum on her sexuality. This allows both those who think she's gay and those who think she's straight to continue believing what they believe without tarnishing Freja's reputation in their eyes, one way or another. Was Amanda Moore as popular back during her hey day, as Freja is now? Does anyone know? I thought I read somewhere that she became less popular after she came out, but that also could have just been a symptom of timing and her career already ending organically since she did come out quite late.

Lastly, I really do think Freja's fans in Asia contribute considerably to her popularity numbers. I don't think we'll ever know how many fans she has over there but I do know there is a very strong Asian contingent on tFS and on her official site. They're fanatical in a way that could be off-putting to some, but I really think it's just a matter of cultural differences. There was discussion about this recently on Freja's tFS thread but at this point it's all just opinion. Much like this whole essay has merely been my opinion. If anyone has any thoughts to add or opinions of their own on the subject I'd love to hear them.

I still don't really know why Freja is so popular on tFS. It could be a combination of the things I mentioned, or none of them at all. Regardless, it's an interesting phenomenon to think about and if you've read this far, I thank you and give you multi-tasking Freja for your time:

Image Credits: Celebritycity