Friday, September 17, 2010

New York SS11 Recap

New York Fashion Week S/S 11 - 13 Shows Total
2 Opening Slots

3 Closing Slots


Alexander Wang (C) - 1 Look
Anna Sui - 2 Looks
Carolina Herrera - 1 Look
Derek Lam - 2 Looks
Diesel Black Gold - 2 Looks
Marc Jacobs (C) - 1 Look
Michael Kors - 3 Looks
Narciso Rodriguez (C) - 2 Looks
Oscar de la Renta - 2 Looks
Ports 1961 (O) - 3 Looks
Rag & Bone (O) - 1 Look
Tom Ford - 1 Look
Vera Wang - 3 Looks

New season, new venue, and arguably a new Freja. With the Bryant Park tents long gone and the glamor of Lincoln Center now commonplace, I feel like we saw a new/old version of Freja this time around in New York.

Don't believe me? I'll let a few names explain what I mean: Carolina, Anna, Oscar, Vera and Tom. All designers known for a certain type of femininity and lauded for the way they can dress a woman. Yes, the model constantly heralded as the archetype of androgyny has grown up and returned to a softness and femininity that characterized the very early seasons of her career. I have to think that this new/old look is closely tied to the length of her hair, which is noticeably longer this show season than it has been since she first cut it all off in September of 2008. It's interesting how so much can ride on so little....but that's another story for another day.

The week started off strong with two shows on Friday, and two opening looks. After skipping last season's show due to illness, Freja came back to open this season's Rag & Bone show. In one day, she went from being strapped in and harnessed, to being soft and flouncy with three looks at Ports 1961, including the opening one. This would merely be the first instance in what I saw as a noticeable return to femininity that I mention above. Less pants and tough girl looks, more dresses and gowns.




Continuing on with her prominent placement in shows, Freja closed the Alexander Wang show on Saturday. She's always been a favorite of Alex's and the two seem to have developed a nice working relationship over the years. Not to mention that Freja is constantly seen wearing his clothes and carrying his bags, so we can assume the feelings of admiration are mutual.



Sunday brought with it two shows. Derek Lam in the morning, and the surprising Tom Ford at night. Freja is a fixture at Derek's shows now, but most people would never have pegged her for a Tom Ford woman. Things have a way of changing, yet remaining the same. A few years ago, Freja with the long hair and fringe would have fit in perfectly with the Ford aesthetic circa 2004. But as all modern woman are apt to do, she underwent changes and transformations in her life and appearance. It's those very changes that inform who she is today, and make her (in my mind) a great Tom Ford woman for the new decade. Different, yet still the same.




One of the things I like most about Freja is how versatile of a model she is. People don't give her enough credit for that, preferring to pigeonhole her into one role and niche. On Monday she displayed that versatility brilliantly with her three shows. At Caroline Herrera she showed us refined elegance. At Diesel Black Gold she showed us modern toughness. And at Marc Jacobs she showed us a glamorous throwback to decadent beauty. Only a few models can carry off such different images in one day. And to top it all off, she closed the MJ show, which is a really big deal because it's considered to be the marquee show of NYFW. Go Freja!





On Tuesday, Freja returned to the runway for Vera Wang, a show she last walked during the SS09 season two years ago. It was Vera's special 20th Anniversary show, so it was nice to see Freja take part with three looks. There are so many designers who seem to have good relationships with Freja that it might be easier to keep track of the ones who don't. ;) Late in the day, Freja walked in and closed the Narciso Rodriguez show in a stunningly beautiful look. The gown was minimal, yet it made such a powerful statement in it's simplicity and Freja just looked absolutely radiant. So many times during the week I felt like I was being transported back 4 years ago. Freja seems to have retained (or regained) the innocence and excitement that comes so naturally to the young models just starting out in their careers.




As the week went on, Freja slowed down just a bit, maybe in preparation for the rest of the cities? When I say slow down, I mean she stopped closing and opening shows and didn't walk in a few shows I thought she would be at. Anyway, Freja walked for Michael Kors and Anna Sui on Wednesday. If you haven't already seen it, you have to watch this cute pre-show video of fittings for the Kors show. Freja is featured prominently, along with an appearance by Karmen.






On the last day of NYFW, Freja walked the Oscar de la Renta runway for only the second time in her career. Last season was her debut and she opened and closed the show. This season she had two looks. I've noticed that as her career progresses, the type of shows Freja walks in changes as well--ODLR and Anna Sui being the two most prominent examples. But I guess that's a given for any model who's been around as long as Freja has. You have to change it and keep things interesting.



Now we're off to London! Actually, the shows have already started today. Will Freja walk? I'm not sure, but I'd like to think so. She doesn't have a showcard, but no showcard doesn't always mean no model. Especially when it comes to models of Freja's status and seniority. So stay tuned!

Image Credits: style.it, contributormagazine.com

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